Having bought the usual round of produce at the market this weekend, with nothing exotic or new or especially useful to report, thoughts turned to the kitchen cupboard and something quite seasonal (though always around): nutmeg. Finding its way into cookies, cakes, and eggnog this month, nutmeg is one of those spices that often remains neglected the rest of the year, which isn’t fair. Let’s not forget that it should always be freshly grated. I only say this because who hasn’t a cup of nog (cartoned, glue-like, but still somehow good for about three sips) garnished with jarred, pregrated nutmeg which in its stale state only adds a tiny little dust storm to the drink but no flavor? I’m not much of a baker, so this time of year I might add a bit more to my roasted butternut squash, garnish my eggnog more robustly, or grate it into sauteed dark greens (kale, chard, spinach). So as you remake the acquaintance of this spice this month, try not to forget it as you head into the new year.
—Hugh
