Thanks to Goop.com’s heads up about Tamara Davis’s website, my wife has extended her infinite exploration of super healthy family cooking into the vegan recipes therein. She dished up her own version of the Peanut Noodles here, with a dash of rice wine vinegar for acid instead of lemon. The kids loved it (okay, 7 year old Violet loved it in total; 4 year old Desmond loved it without the tofu, the scallions, and the sesame seeds). They all ate that for dinner the other night while I went out with some business friends and had the antithesis of this vegan purity on a long night of culinary scouting: braised lamb’s neck, loco moco with foie gras, quail fry and grits, poutine, and donuts with salted caramel at Animal, and then sea urchin, new-style philly cheese steak with kobe beef, and a Manhattan with a sphericized cherry garnish at Jose Andres’ Bazaar. (where I bumped into party promoter and nightlife empresario Brent Bolthouse of SBE who oversees the party scene there and professed to me: “Who knew I would’ve ever become a foodie, but here I am.” I didn’t get a chance to chat with Heidi Fleiss, tho) Most nights we have family meals. And then some nights we have fractured family meals. But it all averages out. I’m planning a lamb’s neck feast for next week.
—Hugh
